Central Appalachia chefs elevate traditional regional food

Braised rabbit and onions with apple fritters at
Benne on Eagle. (New York Times photo by Mike Belleme)

Appalachian food has long been stereotyped or ignored in popular culture. But an increasing number of chefs in the area have been paying homage to homecooking in surprising ways.

"The effort to brand Appalachian food has been on a slow simmer for years. Since 2013, a small but dedicated band of academics, chefs and farmers has hosted a food summit to celebrate and raise awareness of culinary traditions. In 2017, the cookbook author Ronni Lundy won two James Beard awards for her love letter to Appalachia, Victuals," Jane Black reports for The New York Times.

In Asheville, North Carolina, for example, some restaurants put modern spins on traditional dishes, like AUX Bar's vinegar pie, while others fearlessly fuse Appalachian dishes with those of other cultures, like Chai Pani's offerings of specials like dal with collards and country ham, Black reports. Other restaurants focus on certain segments of Appalachian cooking: another Asheville restaurant, Benne on Eagle, focuses on the cuisine of African-American Appalachians.

One Asheville chef, Graham House, says he didn't always respect Appalachian cooking as real cuisine. But, over time, he began to appreciate it more. His veggie-focused restaurant Sovereign Remedies serves foods that rely heavily on locally-available fare. That's in keeping with traditional Appalachian cooking, he told Black. "Honestly, we chuckle at the term 'farm to table,'" House said. "Appalachian cuisine has always relied on what was available."